Project description
I bring a full mobile detailing rig — pressure washer, buffers, marine-grade compounds and a soft-water rinse system — right to your slip, dry stack or driveway, so the boat never has to leave its spot. The job starts with a thorough fresh-water wash to strip salt crust, bird droppings, dock grime and loose algae from every surface, followed by a close inspection of the gelcoat to map out oxidation, stains and chalky patches before any product touches the hull.
Hull work is where most of the value shows up. Waterline scum and light growth are scrubbed off by hand with marine-safe pads, and oxidized gelcoat gets a proper cutting compound followed by a polish pass to bring back depth and gloss rather than just a temporary shine. On boats that have sat neglected for a season or two, I run a two-stage oxidation removal — a heavier cutting compound first, then a finishing polish — because skipping straight to wax on chalky gelcoat just traps the dullness under a coating that won't hold anyway. Once the surface is corrected, a marine-grade carnauba or synthetic sealant goes on in thin, even coats and gets buffed out, giving you UV protection and a slicker finish that sheds water and grime for months rather than weeks.
Below the rub rail, if the boat is in the water, I can address light slime and soft growth on the visible hull sides; heavier bottom paint and antifouling work below the waterline is scheduled separately as a haul-out job, and I'll flag that during the initial walkaround so there are no surprises. Metal fittings, rails, cleats and swim platforms get their own pass with a metal polish to knock back oxidation and water spotting.
Interior detailing covers vacuuming carpets and non-skid, wiping down helm and console surfaces, conditioning vinyl seating and bolsters to prevent cracking, cleaning isinglass or clear vinyl enclosures with a dedicated non-abrasive product, and freshening up cup holders, lockers and hard-to-reach seams where mildew likes to start. Stainless and chrome hardware inside the cockpit gets wiped and protected as part of the same visit.
A typical outing for a boat in reasonably maintained condition — say an 18 to 30 foot center console or cruiser — runs three to six hours depending on oxidation severity and interior scope; a full oxidation correction on a boat that hasn't been touched in a year or more can stretch across two visits. I'll walk the boat with you beforehand, point out problem areas, and give you a clear estimate before starting so there's no guesswork about time or cost.
Hull work is where most of the value shows up. Waterline scum and light growth are scrubbed off by hand with marine-safe pads, and oxidized gelcoat gets a proper cutting compound followed by a polish pass to bring back depth and gloss rather than just a temporary shine. On boats that have sat neglected for a season or two, I run a two-stage oxidation removal — a heavier cutting compound first, then a finishing polish — because skipping straight to wax on chalky gelcoat just traps the dullness under a coating that won't hold anyway. Once the surface is corrected, a marine-grade carnauba or synthetic sealant goes on in thin, even coats and gets buffed out, giving you UV protection and a slicker finish that sheds water and grime for months rather than weeks.
Below the rub rail, if the boat is in the water, I can address light slime and soft growth on the visible hull sides; heavier bottom paint and antifouling work below the waterline is scheduled separately as a haul-out job, and I'll flag that during the initial walkaround so there are no surprises. Metal fittings, rails, cleats and swim platforms get their own pass with a metal polish to knock back oxidation and water spotting.
Interior detailing covers vacuuming carpets and non-skid, wiping down helm and console surfaces, conditioning vinyl seating and bolsters to prevent cracking, cleaning isinglass or clear vinyl enclosures with a dedicated non-abrasive product, and freshening up cup holders, lockers and hard-to-reach seams where mildew likes to start. Stainless and chrome hardware inside the cockpit gets wiped and protected as part of the same visit.
A typical outing for a boat in reasonably maintained condition — say an 18 to 30 foot center console or cruiser — runs three to six hours depending on oxidation severity and interior scope; a full oxidation correction on a boat that hasn't been touched in a year or more can stretch across two visits. I'll walk the boat with you beforehand, point out problem areas, and give you a clear estimate before starting so there's no guesswork about time or cost.
Other / Miscellaneous Cash, Bank transfer
