Project description
My garage floor is bare, painted concrete poured about nine years ago, roughly 400 square feet (two-car bay), and it is showing hot-tire pickup, a few hairline cracks near the door threshold, and old paint flaking in patches. I want the surface fully stripped and mechanically ground with a diamond grinder (not just an acid etch — I have read that etching alone does not give a strong enough profile for long-term adhesion) down to bare concrete, dust captured with a shop vacuum attachment rather than left airborne.
Before any coating goes down, please run a calcium chloride or relative humidity moisture test — I have had a neighbor's floor bubble and peel within a year because that step was skipped, and I do not want a repeat. Cracks and the expansion joint at the door should be filled with a polyurea or epoxy crack filler and leveled flush before priming.
For the system itself I am open to either a 100% solids epoxy base coat with a broadcast color flake blend (charcoal/grey/white mix, or something similar that hides tire marks and dust) followed by a polyaspartic or polyurethane topcoat for UV stability and abrasion resistance, or a metallic epoxy look if the price difference is not too large — happy to hear recommendations based on what holds up best to daily parking, a workbench area, and occasional oil drips.
Timeline: I can keep both cars out of the garage for about a week if needed for full cure, so please lay out a day-by-day schedule (grinding, repair, moisture test, base coat, flake broadcast, scrape and vacuum, topcoat, cure time before light foot traffic and before parking vehicles). Please quote separately for materials and labor, note the epoxy brand and product line you plan to use along with the coverage rate, and include what warranty you offer against peeling or hot-tire lifting. Photos of at least two completed garage floors from the last year would help me decide. Ventilation during application matters too — please describe how you plan to ventilate the space since some epoxy systems have strong fumes during cure.
Before any coating goes down, please run a calcium chloride or relative humidity moisture test — I have had a neighbor's floor bubble and peel within a year because that step was skipped, and I do not want a repeat. Cracks and the expansion joint at the door should be filled with a polyurea or epoxy crack filler and leveled flush before priming.
For the system itself I am open to either a 100% solids epoxy base coat with a broadcast color flake blend (charcoal/grey/white mix, or something similar that hides tire marks and dust) followed by a polyaspartic or polyurethane topcoat for UV stability and abrasion resistance, or a metallic epoxy look if the price difference is not too large — happy to hear recommendations based on what holds up best to daily parking, a workbench area, and occasional oil drips.
Timeline: I can keep both cars out of the garage for about a week if needed for full cure, so please lay out a day-by-day schedule (grinding, repair, moisture test, base coat, flake broadcast, scrape and vacuum, topcoat, cure time before light foot traffic and before parking vehicles). Please quote separately for materials and labor, note the epoxy brand and product line you plan to use along with the coverage rate, and include what warranty you offer against peeling or hot-tire lifting. Photos of at least two completed garage floors from the last year would help me decide. Ventilation during application matters too — please describe how you plan to ventilate the space since some epoxy systems have strong fumes during cure.
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