About the service
I service and repair fishing reels — spinning, baitcasting and classic centrepin. Work starts on the bench with a full teardown, and I photograph every node before it is touched: the rotor, the drag stack, the main gear, the bearing seats. That photo record is not decoration. It is how we agree on what really has to be replaced and what will comfortably fish another season, without asking you to take my word for it.
The routine is the same for a light freshwater reel and for a heavy surf tool; only the chemistry and the tolerances change. Salt and sand are flushed out of the body and the foot, bearings are pulled and judged one by one for grit and catch, tired seals get replaced, and lubricant is chosen node by node: thin oil where lightness of travel matters, heavier grease where the load actually lives. Then I set the drag against the real breaking strain of your line, kill rotor play, hunt down main gear noise, straighten the bail and the line roller, rebuild reels that went for a swim, and respool braid or mono under even, controlled tension.
Three things I tell every customer before we start, so there are no hard feelings later. If the reel took a bath in salt water, rinse it the same day and bring it in — not a week later: bearings already eaten by salt cannot be saved, only replaced. Too much lubricant is exactly as harmful as too little; heavy oil in the line roller drags and spoils the lay of the line. And a worn main gear pair I repair only by replacing it — lapping does not restore it, it just borrows a couple of trips from the next breakdown.
What the job includes:
— full teardown with a photo record and a written fault list per node;
— washing out salt and sand, drying and blowing out the body and the foot;
— bearing check one by one, replacement of bearings and seals as needed;
— fresh lubrication chosen per node, with different viscosities where they belong;
— drag stack service and setting against your actual line;
— removal of rotor play and main gear noise, shim and mesh adjustment;
— bail arm and line roller straightening, spool lip check;
— post-immersion rebuild, including reels drowned in salt water;
— respooling braid or mono under even tension;
— seasonal prevention before and after the season, with a short care brief.
The routine is the same for a light freshwater reel and for a heavy surf tool; only the chemistry and the tolerances change. Salt and sand are flushed out of the body and the foot, bearings are pulled and judged one by one for grit and catch, tired seals get replaced, and lubricant is chosen node by node: thin oil where lightness of travel matters, heavier grease where the load actually lives. Then I set the drag against the real breaking strain of your line, kill rotor play, hunt down main gear noise, straighten the bail and the line roller, rebuild reels that went for a swim, and respool braid or mono under even, controlled tension.
Three things I tell every customer before we start, so there are no hard feelings later. If the reel took a bath in salt water, rinse it the same day and bring it in — not a week later: bearings already eaten by salt cannot be saved, only replaced. Too much lubricant is exactly as harmful as too little; heavy oil in the line roller drags and spoils the lay of the line. And a worn main gear pair I repair only by replacing it — lapping does not restore it, it just borrows a couple of trips from the next breakdown.
What the job includes:
— full teardown with a photo record and a written fault list per node;
— washing out salt and sand, drying and blowing out the body and the foot;
— bearing check one by one, replacement of bearings and seals as needed;
— fresh lubrication chosen per node, with different viscosities where they belong;
— drag stack service and setting against your actual line;
— removal of rotor play and main gear noise, shim and mesh adjustment;
— bail arm and line roller straightening, spool lip check;
— post-immersion rebuild, including reels drowned in salt water;
— respooling braid or mono under even tension;
— seasonal prevention before and after the season, with a short care brief.