About the service
An RV or camper roof rarely leaks immediately — first water finds a weak spot in a seam or around ventilation, and only after months does this turn into a soft, springy section underfoot and delamination of the plywood sheathing. I specialize in constructive roof repair: I don't just cover the problem with sealant on top, but I open up the damaged area, assess the condition of the frame, and replace what has actually rotted.
The work begins with diagnostics. I walk around the roof, tap it and check all suspicious zones by hand, then clarify the moisture boundaries with a moisture meter — this allows me to understand the real scope of work in advance and not cut more than necessary. Once the damage boundary is determined, I remove the membrane, dispose of the delaminated plywood, and inspect the rafters and substrate from below: where needed — I reinforce with overlays, where the frame has lost strength — I replace it completely.
Next comes constructive sealing: new marine-grade moisture-resistant plywood is fitted to the roof profile, securely fastened, and sealed at all penetrations — around vent grilles, antennas, and air conditioning boxes. The membrane ('EPDM', 'TPO', or fiberglass) is returned according to manufacturer specifications, with proper adhesives and sealing tape, so the repair doesn't look like a patch but blends seamlessly with the rest of the roof. Seams around hatches and side walls I reinforce additionally — that's where new leaks most often appear.
A simple repair of one soft spot usually takes one to two days, more extensive delamination with several zones takes longer; I give the exact timeline and cost after inspection, before cutting begins. I photograph each stage and show the removed sheathing so you can see what was hidden under the old covering.
The work begins with diagnostics. I walk around the roof, tap it and check all suspicious zones by hand, then clarify the moisture boundaries with a moisture meter — this allows me to understand the real scope of work in advance and not cut more than necessary. Once the damage boundary is determined, I remove the membrane, dispose of the delaminated plywood, and inspect the rafters and substrate from below: where needed — I reinforce with overlays, where the frame has lost strength — I replace it completely.
Next comes constructive sealing: new marine-grade moisture-resistant plywood is fitted to the roof profile, securely fastened, and sealed at all penetrations — around vent grilles, antennas, and air conditioning boxes. The membrane ('EPDM', 'TPO', or fiberglass) is returned according to manufacturer specifications, with proper adhesives and sealing tape, so the repair doesn't look like a patch but blends seamlessly with the rest of the roof. Seams around hatches and side walls I reinforce additionally — that's where new leaks most often appear.
A simple repair of one soft spot usually takes one to two days, more extensive delamination with several zones takes longer; I give the exact timeline and cost after inspection, before cutting begins. I photograph each stage and show the removed sheathing so you can see what was hidden under the old covering.
