About the service
I take on commissions for hand-carved wooden signs for storefronts, offices, cafes, farms and private homes, and I run the whole job myself — from choosing the timber to hanging the finished plaque. Wood selection is the first decision that decides whether a sign survives ten winters or cracks in two: for outdoor pieces I work mainly in cedar, redwood, teak or well-seasoned oak, because their natural oils and tight grain resist rot and insect damage far better than pine or spruce; for indoor plaques I'll also work in walnut, cherry or maple when a client wants a warmer tone at the reception desk.
Lettering is carved by hand with chisels and gouges, either raised (the background is cut away so the letters stand proud of the surface) or sandblasted (the letters are recessed through a rubber stencil, giving crisp edges even on curved or knotty stock). I also cut sunk V-groove lettering for a more classical, understated look. Before any wood is touched I send a full-scale layout proof showing typeface, spacing, border, and any logo or emblem, so the client approves the exact composition — company name, tagline, address, house number, family name, established year — before carving begins.
Finishing is where most amateur signs fail: I seal every outdoor piece with marine-grade spar varnish or exterior oil in several coats, and gild or paint the lettering with exterior enamel so the contrast holds up under UV and rain rather than fading within a season. Edges are routed and sanded smooth, and the back is sealed too, since moisture wicking up from an unsealed reverse face is the single most common cause of warping I see in signs sent to me for repair.
Every sign ships with mounting hardware matched to the substrate — stainless lag screws and standoffs for masonry, brass screws and a keyhole hanger for wood siding, or a post-and-bracket kit if the sign will stand at a driveway or gate. Typical turnaround for a single- or double-line sign is one to two weeks depending on size and lettering complexity; larger crested signs with an emblem take a bit longer. I'm happy to send photos of previous commissions and a shortlist of typefaces before we start.
Lettering is carved by hand with chisels and gouges, either raised (the background is cut away so the letters stand proud of the surface) or sandblasted (the letters are recessed through a rubber stencil, giving crisp edges even on curved or knotty stock). I also cut sunk V-groove lettering for a more classical, understated look. Before any wood is touched I send a full-scale layout proof showing typeface, spacing, border, and any logo or emblem, so the client approves the exact composition — company name, tagline, address, house number, family name, established year — before carving begins.
Finishing is where most amateur signs fail: I seal every outdoor piece with marine-grade spar varnish or exterior oil in several coats, and gild or paint the lettering with exterior enamel so the contrast holds up under UV and rain rather than fading within a season. Edges are routed and sanded smooth, and the back is sealed too, since moisture wicking up from an unsealed reverse face is the single most common cause of warping I see in signs sent to me for repair.
Every sign ships with mounting hardware matched to the substrate — stainless lag screws and standoffs for masonry, brass screws and a keyhole hanger for wood siding, or a post-and-bracket kit if the sign will stand at a driveway or gate. Typical turnaround for a single- or double-line sign is one to two weeks depending on size and lettering complexity; larger crested signs with an emblem take a bit longer. I'm happy to send photos of previous commissions and a shortlist of typefaces before we start.
