About the service
I install two- and three-coat epoxy systems on garage and shop floors, from a bare single-car bay to a full multi-vehicle slab. Work starts with mechanical diamond grinding — not acid etching — using a walk-behind grinder with dust extraction to open the concrete pore structure and remove old sealer, paint, or oil staining. Every slab is checked with a calcium chloride or relative-humidity moisture test before any product goes down; slabs reading high get a moisture-vapor barrier primer so the coating doesn't blister or delaminate months later, which is the single most common reason garage floors fail.
Cracks and control joints are routed and filled with a semi-rigid epoxy filler, pitted or spalled spots get a cementitious patch, and the slab is profiled to the right roughness before the base coat goes on. I run 100% solids epoxy for the structural base coat rather than thin water-based paint, then build up with a color base, broadcast decorative flake to full or partial refusal, and finish with a clear urethane or polyaspartic topcoat for UV stability and abrasion resistance. Metallic pigment finishes, solid color, and quartz-broadcast systems are all available depending on the look and traffic level you need — daily driver parking, a home gym floor, or a workshop with rolling tool chests and dropped wrenches.
Typical turnaround is two to four days including cure time between coats: prep and repair day one, base coat and flake day two, topcoat day three, and a light-traffic cure before vehicles return. Garage doors are masked, walls protected, and dust is contained with an extraction shroud so the job doesn't spread grinding residue through the house. I bring my own generator and lighting for detached garages without adequate power. Every job includes a written scope covering square footage, prep method, coat thickness, and cure schedule before work begins, plus care instructions for the first thirty days while the coating fully hardens. References and photos of completed floors available on request.
Cracks and control joints are routed and filled with a semi-rigid epoxy filler, pitted or spalled spots get a cementitious patch, and the slab is profiled to the right roughness before the base coat goes on. I run 100% solids epoxy for the structural base coat rather than thin water-based paint, then build up with a color base, broadcast decorative flake to full or partial refusal, and finish with a clear urethane or polyaspartic topcoat for UV stability and abrasion resistance. Metallic pigment finishes, solid color, and quartz-broadcast systems are all available depending on the look and traffic level you need — daily driver parking, a home gym floor, or a workshop with rolling tool chests and dropped wrenches.
Typical turnaround is two to four days including cure time between coats: prep and repair day one, base coat and flake day two, topcoat day three, and a light-traffic cure before vehicles return. Garage doors are masked, walls protected, and dust is contained with an extraction shroud so the job doesn't spread grinding residue through the house. I bring my own generator and lighting for detached garages without adequate power. Every job includes a written scope covering square footage, prep method, coat thickness, and cure schedule before work begins, plus care instructions for the first thirty days while the coating fully hardens. References and photos of completed floors available on request.
