Project description
I restore vintage and classic bicycles back to the condition they deserve, whether the goal is a rider you can take out every weekend or a showpiece that captures a particular era faithfully. Every project starts with a full teardown and a written condition report: frame alignment is checked on a jig, tubing is inspected for rust-through and cracks near the lugs and dropouts, and every component is catalogued so nothing gets lost or swapped by mistake along the way.
The frame is stripped down to bare metal by media blasting, which lifts old paint and surface rust without warping thin-wall steel tubing the way aggressive chemical stripping can. Dents get carefully worked out, braze-ons are re-secured if loose, and any threading or facing on the bottom bracket and head tube is corrected. Repainting is done to match the original colorway as closely as documentation and paint-chip analysis allow, using a proper primer-basecoat-clearcoat process. Decals and head badges are either restored, reproduced from period-accurate artwork, or replaced with new-old-stock pieces when I can source them, and lettering is clear-coated for durability rather than left exposed to fingernails and cleaning cloths.
On the mechanical side, the full drivetrain gets stripped, degreased, and inspected: crankset, bottom bracket, freewheel or cassette, chain, and derailleurs. Worn bushings and cups are replaced, bearings are repacked with fresh grease, and anything beyond economical repair is swapped for a correct period-appropriate replacement rather than a modern substitute that would look wrong on the finished bike. Hubs are rebuilt and wheels are trued on a stand, with rims re-chromed or replaced if pitting is too far gone to save. Brakes are rebuilt with fresh pads and cables, and every fastener is checked against the correct thread pitch for the manufacturing era.
Chrome parts — handlebars, seat posts, fork blades, rims — are sent out for re-plating when polishing alone won't cut it, and I coordinate that process so the finish matches across all the chromed pieces rather than looking patchy. Missing or broken parts are sourced from my network of specialist suppliers and salvage stock; where a genuinely original part can't be found, I'll discuss period-correct alternatives with you honestly rather than quietly installing something that doesn't belong.
Before handover, the bike gets a full safety check: brake stopping power, headset and bottom bracket play, wheel dish and spoke tension, and a test ride on my part. You'll receive a written summary of everything replaced, refinished, or sourced, plus care notes for keeping the restoration looking sharp. Typical turnaround runs one to three weeks depending on paint backlog and parts sourcing, and I'll keep you updated with photos at each major stage — teardown, bare metal, paint, and final build.
The frame is stripped down to bare metal by media blasting, which lifts old paint and surface rust without warping thin-wall steel tubing the way aggressive chemical stripping can. Dents get carefully worked out, braze-ons are re-secured if loose, and any threading or facing on the bottom bracket and head tube is corrected. Repainting is done to match the original colorway as closely as documentation and paint-chip analysis allow, using a proper primer-basecoat-clearcoat process. Decals and head badges are either restored, reproduced from period-accurate artwork, or replaced with new-old-stock pieces when I can source them, and lettering is clear-coated for durability rather than left exposed to fingernails and cleaning cloths.
On the mechanical side, the full drivetrain gets stripped, degreased, and inspected: crankset, bottom bracket, freewheel or cassette, chain, and derailleurs. Worn bushings and cups are replaced, bearings are repacked with fresh grease, and anything beyond economical repair is swapped for a correct period-appropriate replacement rather than a modern substitute that would look wrong on the finished bike. Hubs are rebuilt and wheels are trued on a stand, with rims re-chromed or replaced if pitting is too far gone to save. Brakes are rebuilt with fresh pads and cables, and every fastener is checked against the correct thread pitch for the manufacturing era.
Chrome parts — handlebars, seat posts, fork blades, rims — are sent out for re-plating when polishing alone won't cut it, and I coordinate that process so the finish matches across all the chromed pieces rather than looking patchy. Missing or broken parts are sourced from my network of specialist suppliers and salvage stock; where a genuinely original part can't be found, I'll discuss period-correct alternatives with you honestly rather than quietly installing something that doesn't belong.
Before handover, the bike gets a full safety check: brake stopping power, headset and bottom bracket play, wheel dish and spoke tension, and a test ride on my part. You'll receive a written summary of everything replaced, refinished, or sourced, plus care notes for keeping the restoration looking sharp. Typical turnaround runs one to three weeks depending on paint backlog and parts sourcing, and I'll keep you updated with photos at each major stage — teardown, bare metal, paint, and final build.
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