About the service
Skip the trip-hazard legs and carnival look of an above-ground frame — I install trampolines sunk flush with the lawn so the jumping mat sits level with the surrounding grass. Every job opens with a site walk to check drainage slope, buried utility lines and soil type, because a pit dug into clay drains nothing like one dug into sandy loam.
Excavation depth is matched to your specific frame and spring length (typically 30–42 inches), with a few extra inches of clearance so the mat never bottoms out under a heavy landing. The floor of the pit gets a compacted gravel drainage layer — four to six inches of crushed stone tied into a perforated pipe or a daylighted french drain — so the hole never turns into a stagnant pond after a storm. Skipping this step is the single most common reason sunken trampolines rot out within two seasons.
Around the rim I build a retaining ring — stacked landscape block, pressure-treated timber, or corrugated galvanized steel — to hold the walls back from sloughing in over time, and I leave a calculated ventilation gap between the pit wall and the spring bed so trapped air has somewhere to go on the downstroke instead of blowing the mat back up like a drum. Get that gap wrong and the jump feels dead or dangerously stiff.
The rim is finished with dense safety-edge padding secured below grade, and sod or mulch is restored flush to the padding so there's no visible seam. I carry a portfolio of completed pits with cross-section photos showing the gravel base, drain routing and padding detail. Typical turnaround is one to two days of digging plus a day for backfill and turf repair, depending on soil and frame size. Book a consultation and I'll size the pit, drainage and ventilation gap to your exact trampoline model before any shovel touches the ground.
Excavation depth is matched to your specific frame and spring length (typically 30–42 inches), with a few extra inches of clearance so the mat never bottoms out under a heavy landing. The floor of the pit gets a compacted gravel drainage layer — four to six inches of crushed stone tied into a perforated pipe or a daylighted french drain — so the hole never turns into a stagnant pond after a storm. Skipping this step is the single most common reason sunken trampolines rot out within two seasons.
Around the rim I build a retaining ring — stacked landscape block, pressure-treated timber, or corrugated galvanized steel — to hold the walls back from sloughing in over time, and I leave a calculated ventilation gap between the pit wall and the spring bed so trapped air has somewhere to go on the downstroke instead of blowing the mat back up like a drum. Get that gap wrong and the jump feels dead or dangerously stiff.
The rim is finished with dense safety-edge padding secured below grade, and sod or mulch is restored flush to the padding so there's no visible seam. I carry a portfolio of completed pits with cross-section photos showing the gravel base, drain routing and padding detail. Typical turnaround is one to two days of digging plus a day for backfill and turf repair, depending on soil and frame size. Book a consultation and I'll size the pit, drainage and ventilation gap to your exact trampoline model before any shovel touches the ground.
