Project description
I need a drip irrigation system designed and installed on my country plot outside the city: a polycarbonate greenhouse 3 by 8 metres, plus twelve open-ground beds, each about 0.8 by 6 metres, laid out in two rows with a path between them. Water comes from a shallow well with a surface pump; pressure at the tap swings between 1.5 and 2.5 bar and sags in the evening when the neighbours start watering. That is why I want the whole system fed not straight from the pump but from a 750 litre plastic tank standing on a low stand, where the water warms up through the day. Pouring ice-cold well water onto tomato roots is exactly what I am trying to stop doing.
The tank should fill automatically through a float valve, with the overflow led away from the foundation, and the line to the beds should pass through a disc filter of roughly 120 mesh. Last season I used cheap tape with no filtration at all and within a month half the emitters were clogged with silt and lime, so filtration and a flushing end cap on every run matter far more to me than clever electronics. In the greenhouse I would like pressure-compensating dripline with emitters every 30 centimetres; in the open beds 20 centimetres is enough, because I plant carrots and onions densely.
Watering has to run on a schedule while I am away: a controller with at least four zones, separate programmes for the greenhouse and for the open ground, and an obvious switch to manual. Please price winterisation as part of the job - how the lines are blown out or drained, where the tank water goes, what is carried indoors for the cold months. Everything should be finished before the middle of May, while the seedlings are still on the windowsill.
— site visit, measurement of pressure and flow at the source;
— layout drawing with zones, pipe diameters and emitter spacing;
— materials and installation: tank, float valve, filter, mains, driplines;
— controller setup with seasonal programmes and a short written instruction;
— test run of every zone and a printed note on the autumn shutdown.
The tank should fill automatically through a float valve, with the overflow led away from the foundation, and the line to the beds should pass through a disc filter of roughly 120 mesh. Last season I used cheap tape with no filtration at all and within a month half the emitters were clogged with silt and lime, so filtration and a flushing end cap on every run matter far more to me than clever electronics. In the greenhouse I would like pressure-compensating dripline with emitters every 30 centimetres; in the open beds 20 centimetres is enough, because I plant carrots and onions densely.
Watering has to run on a schedule while I am away: a controller with at least four zones, separate programmes for the greenhouse and for the open ground, and an obvious switch to manual. Please price winterisation as part of the job - how the lines are blown out or drained, where the tank water goes, what is carried indoors for the cold months. Everything should be finished before the middle of May, while the seedlings are still on the windowsill.
— site visit, measurement of pressure and flow at the source;
— layout drawing with zones, pipe diameters and emitter spacing;
— materials and installation: tank, float valve, filter, mains, driplines;
— controller setup with seasonal programmes and a short written instruction;
— test run of every zone and a printed note on the autumn shutdown.
Other / Miscellaneous Cash, Bank transfer
