Project description
Drainage is not an afterthought punched in at the end — it is planned into the wall thickness and the foot design from the first pull of clay. Multiple holes are placed around the lower third of the vessel wall, above the true base, which mimics how orchid roots want to breathe laterally rather than sitting in standing water at the bottom. For open-pot orders I also cut a ring of smaller slotted vents higher up the wall so air moves freely through the bark mix. A matching saucer is thrown to the same clay body and glaze, sized with enough of a lip to catch runoff without letting the pot sit directly in pooled water, with a small raised foot ring under the saucer floor so the pot itself never rests in moisture.
Glazing is where the piece becomes genuinely yours. I keep the interior either unglazed or lightly glazed so it stays breathable, while the exterior can go anywhere from a soft matte celadon to a rich temmoku or a crackled ash glaze depending on the palette of your space. Every glaze is tested food-safe and fully vitrified, so it holds up to years of watering without crazing or absorbing moisture into the clay body itself. Typical finished sizing runs from a compact four-inch vessel for a miniature orchid up to a nine-inch pot for a mature cattleya, and we confirm exact dimensions against your plant before the wheel ever starts turning.
The full process — throwing, trimming the drainage holes and foot ring, bisque firing, glazing, and the final glaze firing — takes roughly two to three weeks depending on kiln scheduling, and I send progress photos at each stage so you can see the piece develop from wet clay to finished glaze. The result is a vessel built for exactly how your orchid lives, not a decorative pot that happens to have a hole punched in the bottom.