Project description
I plan and install complete underground irrigation systems for residential lawns, from the first walk-through to the final controller programming. The work starts with a site survey: I measure the lawn, note sun and shade patterns, soil type, existing planting beds, slope, and the location of the water meter and outdoor spigot. Static water pressure and flow rate are checked, because these two numbers decide how many zones the system needs and how many heads each zone can safely run without starving the last one in the line.
Zone layout comes next. Turf areas are separated from shrub and flower beds because grass and plantings need very different watering schedules and nozzle types. Sunny, exposed sections are zoned apart from shaded corners, and slopes get their own zone with cycle-and-soak scheduling in mind to avoid runoff. I sketch head placement so that spray patterns overlap edge-to-edge (head-to-head coverage), which is the detail that prevents the dry crescents and brown stripes so common in poorly designed systems. Narrow side yards and strips typically get spray heads with adjustable arcs, while open lawn areas are usually better served by gear-driven rotors that throw water farther and apply it more evenly in wind.
Once the layout is approved, trenching begins. Pipe routes are marked and utilities located before any digging starts. Trenches are cut to a consistent depth below the frost line appropriate for the region, pipe is laid with gentle bends rather than sharp elbows where possible, and lateral lines are pressure-tested for leaks before backfilling. Sod is cut and saved in sections wherever possible so the lawn surface is restored with minimal scarring rather than reseeded from scratch.
At the water source, I install a dedicated shutoff, a backflow prevention device sized and positioned according to local code (this protects the household drinking water from any possibility of irrigation water siphoning backward), and the valve manifold that feeds each zone. Valves are wired back to a controller mounted in a garage, utility area, or weatherproof outdoor enclosure. The controller is set up with a realistic seasonal schedule, and I walk the homeowner through adjusting run times, adding a rain sensor or smart weather-based scheduling, and pausing zones for reseeding or aeration work.
Before wrapping up, every zone is run through a full test cycle, head heights and arcs are fine-tuned, and any missed coverage spots are corrected. The homeowner receives a simple zone map and a short walkthrough of the controller so seasonal adjustments and winterization are straightforward going forward. Typical projects for an average-size suburban lawn run about a week from initial survey to final walkthrough, though larger properties with more zones take longer.
Zone layout comes next. Turf areas are separated from shrub and flower beds because grass and plantings need very different watering schedules and nozzle types. Sunny, exposed sections are zoned apart from shaded corners, and slopes get their own zone with cycle-and-soak scheduling in mind to avoid runoff. I sketch head placement so that spray patterns overlap edge-to-edge (head-to-head coverage), which is the detail that prevents the dry crescents and brown stripes so common in poorly designed systems. Narrow side yards and strips typically get spray heads with adjustable arcs, while open lawn areas are usually better served by gear-driven rotors that throw water farther and apply it more evenly in wind.
Once the layout is approved, trenching begins. Pipe routes are marked and utilities located before any digging starts. Trenches are cut to a consistent depth below the frost line appropriate for the region, pipe is laid with gentle bends rather than sharp elbows where possible, and lateral lines are pressure-tested for leaks before backfilling. Sod is cut and saved in sections wherever possible so the lawn surface is restored with minimal scarring rather than reseeded from scratch.
At the water source, I install a dedicated shutoff, a backflow prevention device sized and positioned according to local code (this protects the household drinking water from any possibility of irrigation water siphoning backward), and the valve manifold that feeds each zone. Valves are wired back to a controller mounted in a garage, utility area, or weatherproof outdoor enclosure. The controller is set up with a realistic seasonal schedule, and I walk the homeowner through adjusting run times, adding a rain sensor or smart weather-based scheduling, and pausing zones for reseeding or aeration work.
Before wrapping up, every zone is run through a full test cycle, head heights and arcs are fine-tuned, and any missed coverage spots are corrected. The homeowner receives a simple zone map and a short walkthrough of the controller so seasonal adjustments and winterization are straightforward going forward. Typical projects for an average-size suburban lawn run about a week from initial survey to final walkthrough, though larger properties with more zones take longer.
Other / Miscellaneous Cash, Bank transfer
