Project description
I carve complete chess sets to order, working the pieces and the board by hand from solid wood rather than turning them on a lathe or casting them in resin. Every commission starts with a short conversation about how you want the set to feel: a traditional Staunton profile with weighted, felted bases for tournament-style play, or a themed set built around a story you bring me — a historical army facing off against its rival, animals standing in as knights and bishops, or a family crest worked into the king and queen. I sketch the proposed silhouettes first and send photos before a single cut is made, so you are approving a design, not hoping one arrives in the mail.
For wood I usually pair a light species such as maple, sycamore, or holly against a dark one like walnut, wenge, or rosewood, which keeps the board legible and gives the two armies real contrast across the table. If you have a specific timber in mind — reclaimed oak from a family property, for instance — I am glad to carve from material you supply, provided it is dry and stable enough to hold fine detail. Boards are built from the same matched pairs, edge-glued and framed, typically in the 45-50 cm range for standard 5-6 cm squares, though I will size everything to fit a table, a travel case, or a display cabinet you already own.
Finishing is done with hand-rubbed oil or a durable satin lacquer depending on how the set will be used — oil for a warmer, more tactile piece meant for regular play, lacquer for a set that will see travel or sit on display. Bases are felted, kings are weighted with lead or steel inserts for stability, and every piece is sanded through several grits so there are no sharp edges left from the gouge work. A full set — thirty-two pieces plus board — typically takes two to three weeks depending on the complexity of the theme and how much relief carving the design calls for; I will give you a firm date once the design is locked. I photograph progress at each major stage so you can watch the pieces take shape rather than wait for a single reveal at the end.
For wood I usually pair a light species such as maple, sycamore, or holly against a dark one like walnut, wenge, or rosewood, which keeps the board legible and gives the two armies real contrast across the table. If you have a specific timber in mind — reclaimed oak from a family property, for instance — I am glad to carve from material you supply, provided it is dry and stable enough to hold fine detail. Boards are built from the same matched pairs, edge-glued and framed, typically in the 45-50 cm range for standard 5-6 cm squares, though I will size everything to fit a table, a travel case, or a display cabinet you already own.
Finishing is done with hand-rubbed oil or a durable satin lacquer depending on how the set will be used — oil for a warmer, more tactile piece meant for regular play, lacquer for a set that will see travel or sit on display. Bases are felted, kings are weighted with lead or steel inserts for stability, and every piece is sanded through several grits so there are no sharp edges left from the gouge work. A full set — thirty-two pieces plus board — typically takes two to three weeks depending on the complexity of the theme and how much relief carving the design calls for; I will give you a firm date once the design is locked. I photograph progress at each major stage so you can watch the pieces take shape rather than wait for a single reveal at the end.
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