About the service
I install and configure smart lawn irrigation controllers paired with soil moisture sensors, turning an ordinary sprinkler timer into a system that waters only when the ground actually needs it. Every job starts with a zone-by-zone walkthrough of your existing valve manifold: I trace each solenoid wire back to the controller terminals, label loose or unmarked runs, and test valve response before any new hardware goes in. Bad wire nuts, corroded splices, and undersized transformers are the most common reasons a «smart» controller behaves erratically, so I replace weak connections with waterproof gel splices rated for direct burial.
Once the wiring is verified, I mount the new controller near a GFCI-protected outlet, connect it to your home WiFi network, and pair the companion app so you can see zone status and history from your phone. Soil moisture sensors get placed at root depth in the zone that best represents that area's soil type — sandy strips, clay pockets, and shaded turf all hold water differently, and a single sensor per zone gives a far more honest reading than guessing from one spot near the spigot. I calibrate each sensor against a manual probe reading before trusting it to skip a cycle.
Weather-based scheduling is where most of the water savings come from: I configure rain skip, wind delay, and evapotranspiration-adjusted run times using the nearest weather station data the controller supports, then fine-tune cycle-and-soak intervals for sloped or compacted lawns so runoff doesn't just wash down the driveway. App notifications are set up for valve faults, high-flow leak alerts, and freeze lockouts, so you find out about a broken head from a push notification instead of a spiked water bill.
Typical turnaround is a single visit for controllers up to twelve zones with sensors on the zones that need them most; larger properties or multi-controller layouts are scoped after a quick photo review of your valve box and panel. I bring my own low-voltage wire, wire nuts, gel splice kits, and a basic irrigation multimeter, and I test every zone twice — once manually, once through the scheduled program — before calling the job finished. You get a written zone map, sensor placement notes, and a short walkthrough of the app so you're not locked out of your own system.
Once the wiring is verified, I mount the new controller near a GFCI-protected outlet, connect it to your home WiFi network, and pair the companion app so you can see zone status and history from your phone. Soil moisture sensors get placed at root depth in the zone that best represents that area's soil type — sandy strips, clay pockets, and shaded turf all hold water differently, and a single sensor per zone gives a far more honest reading than guessing from one spot near the spigot. I calibrate each sensor against a manual probe reading before trusting it to skip a cycle.
Weather-based scheduling is where most of the water savings come from: I configure rain skip, wind delay, and evapotranspiration-adjusted run times using the nearest weather station data the controller supports, then fine-tune cycle-and-soak intervals for sloped or compacted lawns so runoff doesn't just wash down the driveway. App notifications are set up for valve faults, high-flow leak alerts, and freeze lockouts, so you find out about a broken head from a push notification instead of a spiked water bill.
Typical turnaround is a single visit for controllers up to twelve zones with sensors on the zones that need them most; larger properties or multi-controller layouts are scoped after a quick photo review of your valve box and panel. I bring my own low-voltage wire, wire nuts, gel splice kits, and a basic irrigation multimeter, and I test every zone twice — once manually, once through the scheduled program — before calling the job finished. You get a written zone map, sensor placement notes, and a short walkthrough of the app so you're not locked out of your own system.
