About the service
Every job starts with the sample in my hands, not with a photo. I look for undercuts, check how deep the relief goes, ask what the original is made of and whether it will survive contact with silicone at all. That decides the type of mold: a flat relief goes into a simple open mold, a figure in the round needs a two-part mold with keys, a sprue and vents, so the air can leave and the material reaches the thinnest edges. Sometimes the parting line follows a seam that already exists on the piece rather than the geometry, and that choice is made on the object itself.
Before the pour I prepare the model: dust and old coatings come off, chips are stabilised if you want them kept, and a release layer goes on so the silicone never grips a porous surface and your original comes back exactly as it left. I pour in a thin stream into one point, with vacuum degassing or long, patient tapping, because a bubble sitting against the model turns into a bead on every single copy. Once the rubber has cured I make a first test cast. That cast tells me where a vent is missing, where the mold pinches a detail and where the seam will need trimming, and I correct the mold from that test rather than from a finished batch.
Then come the copies. Plaster gives a matte interior surface and a cheap proof, polymer resin gives dense parts with crisp detail, concrete and gypsum-polymer mixes suit garden and outdoor pieces. Castings are sanded, painted and patinated when we agree on it. I count the mold life honestly in dozens of pulls: soft rubber on a complex relief lasts fewer cycles, a simple open mold lasts far longer, and when edges start to soften I make a replacement mold from the kept master. The mold goes to you with the copies, and it should be stored unloaded, out of the sun and without being stretched.
— I copy only what you hold the rights to: I do not reproduce other artists' sculptures, figurines or craft pieces without permission, and I do not mold museum objects.
— Silicone and resins are handled with ventilation and gloves; uncured component irritates the skin.
— Molds and castings made from general-purpose resins are not intended for food contact; food casting requires a separate certified silicone, and I say so up front.
— A finished resin piece dislikes heat and direct sun: near a radiator or on a windowsill it yellows and warps.
— Timing: the mold takes a few days, the run is quoted separately, and the test cast is approved before the series starts.
Before the pour I prepare the model: dust and old coatings come off, chips are stabilised if you want them kept, and a release layer goes on so the silicone never grips a porous surface and your original comes back exactly as it left. I pour in a thin stream into one point, with vacuum degassing or long, patient tapping, because a bubble sitting against the model turns into a bead on every single copy. Once the rubber has cured I make a first test cast. That cast tells me where a vent is missing, where the mold pinches a detail and where the seam will need trimming, and I correct the mold from that test rather than from a finished batch.
Then come the copies. Plaster gives a matte interior surface and a cheap proof, polymer resin gives dense parts with crisp detail, concrete and gypsum-polymer mixes suit garden and outdoor pieces. Castings are sanded, painted and patinated when we agree on it. I count the mold life honestly in dozens of pulls: soft rubber on a complex relief lasts fewer cycles, a simple open mold lasts far longer, and when edges start to soften I make a replacement mold from the kept master. The mold goes to you with the copies, and it should be stored unloaded, out of the sun and without being stretched.
— I copy only what you hold the rights to: I do not reproduce other artists' sculptures, figurines or craft pieces without permission, and I do not mold museum objects.
— Silicone and resins are handled with ventilation and gloves; uncured component irritates the skin.
— Molds and castings made from general-purpose resins are not intended for food contact; food casting requires a separate certified silicone, and I say so up front.
— A finished resin piece dislikes heat and direct sun: near a radiator or on a windowsill it yellows and warps.
— Timing: the mold takes a few days, the run is quoted separately, and the test cast is approved before the series starts.
