About the service
I assemble and solder boards from a finished schematic that you send me together with the layout and the bill of materials. Most of my jobs start with a kit: the parts are bought, the manual is printed, and the owner simply does not want to risk a soldering iron on components that cannot be replaced quickly. I check the kit against the packing list, confirm values, orientation and polarity, seat every part in its own footprint and work from the low components upwards, so nothing sits crooked or hangs above the board while the next joint is being made.
The other half of my work is repair. Bulging capacitors, scorched power connectors, collapsed tactile switches, a charging socket torn off together with its pads. I fit sockets under socketable chips so the next swap takes a minute instead of an evening, bridge lifted traces with a short wire, sleeve leads in heatshrink and route the loom so it never rubs against the case or the heatsink. Afterwards the flux is washed off and every joint is inspected under magnification: no cold joints, no solder balls, no bridges between neighbouring pads. I photograph the board as it arrives and as it leaves, so you can see exactly what was touched.
I work only with low-voltage equipment and only from schematics supplied by the client. Devices that plug straight into mains power, and anything involving gas, heating or the wiring of a home, go to a licensed specialist with the proper certification — I do not take that on. Flux and solder give off harmful fumes, so the bench runs under fume extraction, and lead-free solder is used wherever it is required. I do not build or repair anything that breaks the law or defeats the protection of someone else's device.
— assembly of hobby kits from your manual and schematic, intake against a written inventory;
— board build from the layout you send: through-hole parts and mid-size surface-mount packages;
— replacement of bulging capacitors, power and signal connectors, buttons and charging sockets;
— sockets fitted under chips, lifted pads and broken traces restored with a wire link;
— flux washed off, heatshrink on every splice, cable looms tied down tidily;
— continuity checked against the schematic, board tested under load before it is packed;
— an honest verdict: if the board is beyond saving, I say so at once and do not charge for a miracle.
The other half of my work is repair. Bulging capacitors, scorched power connectors, collapsed tactile switches, a charging socket torn off together with its pads. I fit sockets under socketable chips so the next swap takes a minute instead of an evening, bridge lifted traces with a short wire, sleeve leads in heatshrink and route the loom so it never rubs against the case or the heatsink. Afterwards the flux is washed off and every joint is inspected under magnification: no cold joints, no solder balls, no bridges between neighbouring pads. I photograph the board as it arrives and as it leaves, so you can see exactly what was touched.
I work only with low-voltage equipment and only from schematics supplied by the client. Devices that plug straight into mains power, and anything involving gas, heating or the wiring of a home, go to a licensed specialist with the proper certification — I do not take that on. Flux and solder give off harmful fumes, so the bench runs under fume extraction, and lead-free solder is used wherever it is required. I do not build or repair anything that breaks the law or defeats the protection of someone else's device.
— assembly of hobby kits from your manual and schematic, intake against a written inventory;
— board build from the layout you send: through-hole parts and mid-size surface-mount packages;
— replacement of bulging capacitors, power and signal connectors, buttons and charging sockets;
— sockets fitted under chips, lifted pads and broken traces restored with a wire link;
— flux washed off, heatshrink on every splice, cable looms tied down tidily;
— continuity checked against the schematic, board tested under load before it is packed;
— an honest verdict: if the board is beyond saving, I say so at once and do not charge for a miracle.
