About the service
I have been weaving paracord for years, and most of my work starts with the same short conversation: what the item is for, who will use it, and how hard it will be pulled. For a dog lead I ask for the neck measurement taken with two fingers under the tape, the height of the handler, and where you walk. A lead for a city pavement and a lead for a forest path are not the same length: 120 cm suits a dog that walks close, 150 cm gives a comfortable loop over the wrist, and 180-200 cm is for open ground where the dog works ahead of you. A collar is woven two to three centimetres longer than the raw measurement so it sits without pressing, and I always check that two fingers slide under the finished band. A collar that presses is a badly made collar, no matter how neat the weave looks.
The pattern is chosen by the job, not by the photograph. A four-strand round braid gives a dense, ropey lead that keeps its shape. A flat cobra with two working strands over a core is the usual choice for collars and handle wraps because it lies flat against skin and metal. King cobra doubles the layer, looks heavier and eats roughly twice the cord, so I use it where a thick grip is wanted rather than everywhere. Cord thickness matters too: 4 mm type III is the working standard, thinner 2 mm cord is for fine lanyards and inlays, and a stiffer cord holds a crisp pattern while a softer one is kinder to the hand on a long walk. I can weave in a reflective strand for dark mornings and a small flat name tag with your phone details punched on metal, so the tag does not dangle and rattle.
Hardware is where I refuse to compromise. For a small or calm dog a good plastic side-release buckle is fine. For a strong dog I fit metal only: a cast or forged snap hook, welded rings, and a buckle rated well above anything the dog can produce in a sudden lunge, chosen after I ask the dog's weight and how it behaves when something runs past. And one thing said plainly, because it is the most important line here: everything I weave is a decorative and everyday item. It is not safety equipment. Paracord work of mine must never be used to secure, belay or lower a person, nor to lift or sling a load - certified, tested and marked equipment exists for that, and nothing hand-woven replaces it.
What I make and how the work goes:
— dog leads to your length, with a woven wrist loop, a traffic handle near the clip if you need one, and metal hardware sized to the dog;
— collars by neck measurement, with a reflective strand and a woven-in address plate on request;
— lanyards for knives, keys, torches and tools, with a sliding knot so the loop tightens on the wrist;
— grip wraps for knife handles, axes, hammers, paddles and camera straps, woven tight over the existing handle;
— colour work: two- and three-colour combinations, contrast core, thin accent strand, or a quiet single colour if you prefer;
— care: hand wash in warm water with mild soap, rinse, and dry flat away from radiators and direct sun; never machine dry, as heat shrinks the sheath and stiffens the braid;
— repair and reweaving: I can strip a worn lead down and reweave it on your existing hardware, which costs far less than a new one;
— timing: a lanyard or handle wrap takes a couple of days, a lead and collar set about nine days including the wait for the right hardware, and rush work is possible if I have the cord and fittings in stock.
The pattern is chosen by the job, not by the photograph. A four-strand round braid gives a dense, ropey lead that keeps its shape. A flat cobra with two working strands over a core is the usual choice for collars and handle wraps because it lies flat against skin and metal. King cobra doubles the layer, looks heavier and eats roughly twice the cord, so I use it where a thick grip is wanted rather than everywhere. Cord thickness matters too: 4 mm type III is the working standard, thinner 2 mm cord is for fine lanyards and inlays, and a stiffer cord holds a crisp pattern while a softer one is kinder to the hand on a long walk. I can weave in a reflective strand for dark mornings and a small flat name tag with your phone details punched on metal, so the tag does not dangle and rattle.
Hardware is where I refuse to compromise. For a small or calm dog a good plastic side-release buckle is fine. For a strong dog I fit metal only: a cast or forged snap hook, welded rings, and a buckle rated well above anything the dog can produce in a sudden lunge, chosen after I ask the dog's weight and how it behaves when something runs past. And one thing said plainly, because it is the most important line here: everything I weave is a decorative and everyday item. It is not safety equipment. Paracord work of mine must never be used to secure, belay or lower a person, nor to lift or sling a load - certified, tested and marked equipment exists for that, and nothing hand-woven replaces it.
What I make and how the work goes:
— dog leads to your length, with a woven wrist loop, a traffic handle near the clip if you need one, and metal hardware sized to the dog;
— collars by neck measurement, with a reflective strand and a woven-in address plate on request;
— lanyards for knives, keys, torches and tools, with a sliding knot so the loop tightens on the wrist;
— grip wraps for knife handles, axes, hammers, paddles and camera straps, woven tight over the existing handle;
— colour work: two- and three-colour combinations, contrast core, thin accent strand, or a quiet single colour if you prefer;
— care: hand wash in warm water with mild soap, rinse, and dry flat away from radiators and direct sun; never machine dry, as heat shrinks the sheath and stiffens the braid;
— repair and reweaving: I can strip a worn lead down and reweave it on your existing hardware, which costs far less than a new one;
— timing: a lanyard or handle wrap takes a couple of days, a lead and collar set about nine days including the wait for the right hardware, and rush work is possible if I have the cord and fittings in stock.
