About the service
I fit security roller shutters on windows, balcony blocks and entrance doors, and every job begins with a survey on site rather than a number quoted over the phone. I measure the opening at three heights and three widths, check whether the reveal is deep enough to hide a built-in box or whether we mount a surface box above the frame, look at what the lintel is made of, and work out where a cable would run if you want a motor now or later. That half hour decides everything else: box size, slat height, guide rail depth, and how the curtain will sit against plaster, brick or an insulated facade.
Then we choose the profile. Foam filled roll formed slats are the sensible default for flats and houses: they are light, quiet, hold heat, cut street noise noticeably and black the room out completely. Where the opening is on the ground floor, faces an open yard, closes a shopfront or a wide garage bay, I recommend extruded slats instead, together with locking bolts in the bottom bar, automatic latches that grip the guide rails the moment the curtain is down, and anti lift protection. A shutter that cannot be pushed up by hand is worth more than any extra millimetre of aluminium.
Control is the part people underestimate. A crank handle with a gearbox is an honest solution that runs for years and asks for nothing. A tubular motor with a remote, a wall switch or group control is a different life altogether, especially over four or five openings, but it has to be planned together with a way out: I always leave emergency opening in place, either a manual override crank, a battery backup unit or an external key release, so a power cut never locks you in or out. After the fit I set the end positions, balance the tension, seal the box, show you the service routine and come back for the first adjustment free of charge.
What the price covers:
— site visit, measurements and a written specification;
— curtain, guide rails, box and fixings;
— installation on a window, door or garage opening;
— manual crank gear or a motor with remote and switch;
— emergency opening and locking hardware;
— setup, sealing, cleaning up and a handover walkthrough.
Then we choose the profile. Foam filled roll formed slats are the sensible default for flats and houses: they are light, quiet, hold heat, cut street noise noticeably and black the room out completely. Where the opening is on the ground floor, faces an open yard, closes a shopfront or a wide garage bay, I recommend extruded slats instead, together with locking bolts in the bottom bar, automatic latches that grip the guide rails the moment the curtain is down, and anti lift protection. A shutter that cannot be pushed up by hand is worth more than any extra millimetre of aluminium.
Control is the part people underestimate. A crank handle with a gearbox is an honest solution that runs for years and asks for nothing. A tubular motor with a remote, a wall switch or group control is a different life altogether, especially over four or five openings, but it has to be planned together with a way out: I always leave emergency opening in place, either a manual override crank, a battery backup unit or an external key release, so a power cut never locks you in or out. After the fit I set the end positions, balance the tension, seal the box, show you the service routine and come back for the first adjustment free of charge.
What the price covers:
— site visit, measurements and a written specification;
— curtain, guide rails, box and fixings;
— installation on a window, door or garage opening;
— manual crank gear or a motor with remote and switch;
— emergency opening and locking hardware;
— setup, sealing, cleaning up and a handover walkthrough.
