About the service
I install whole-house leaf-protection gutter guards as a standalone service, not a bundled add-on — measurement, material selection and fastening are treated as three separate crafts that each get done properly. Every job starts with a walk of the full roofline: I record fascia depth, gutter width, hanger spacing and the pitch of each roof plane, because a guard cut for a 6-in-12 slope curls water past the trough on a steeper 9-in-12 run. Material choice follows the property, not a default catalog pick — micro-mesh stainless screen for properties under heavy pine or maple canopy where needle and seed litter is fine, perforated aluminum panel where load is mostly broad leaves, and reverse-curve foam inserts only where the existing gutter profile actually supports them. Fastening goes under the shingle lip on one edge and clips to the gutter face on the other, never screwed through open shingle tabs — that detail alone is why guards installed by handyman crews loosen within two seasons while a properly hemmed edge holds. I work the entire perimeter in one mobilization: front, rear, both sides, valleys and the short runs over bay windows and porches, so the roof gets one continuous water-shedding system instead of a patchwork of guarded and unguarded runs that push debris toward the weakest section. Downspout inlets get their own strainer baskets sized to the guard mesh so surface flow doesn't overwhelm the drop. Typical whole-house jobs on a standard single-story footprint run one to two working days; steep or multi-story rooflines are quoted after the walk-through, not guessed from curb photos. I carry harness and roof-anchor gear for pitches that a straight ladder can't safely reach, and I photograph gutter condition before covering it so you have a record of what was underneath. Portfolio of completed whole-house runs, material samples and a written slope-compatibility note are provided before any material order goes in.
