About the service
I install pet doors and cat flaps in exterior walls, entry doors, garage doors, and window panels, sizing every opening to the actual animal rather than a generic chart — from a small kitten flap to a wide opening for a large breed dog. Each job starts with measuring the pet's shoulder height and chest width while it is standing and walking through a doorway, then adding the clearance the flap manufacturer specifies so the animal never has to duck or squeeze.
Cutting technique changes with the surface: hollow-core interior doors need internal bracing sleeves so the cut edges don't crush inward, solid wood doors get a rabbeted frame insert, brick and stucco walls are cored with a diamond bit and the tunnel is built from insulated PVC sleeve to stop drafts, and vinyl siding gets a flashed surround so water never reaches the sheathing. On exterior walls I always insulate the tunnel and seal both interior and exterior trim with weatherproof caulk, because an uninsulated flap tunnel is the single biggest source of complaints about pet doors — cold air, condensation, and a wet floor under the flap.
I fit four-way locking flaps (in, out, both, and fully locked) as standard, and can wire in microchip- or collar-tag-reading electronic flaps so only your own pets get through, keeping strays and wildlife out. Every cut edge is finished and painted or stained to match the surrounding door or wall, sawdust and debris are contained and cleaned up before I leave, and I test the flap with your pet present whenever possible. The finished opening is sealed against drafts and checked for a smooth, quiet swing before the job is called done, backed by a workmanship guarantee on the seal and frame.
Cutting technique changes with the surface: hollow-core interior doors need internal bracing sleeves so the cut edges don't crush inward, solid wood doors get a rabbeted frame insert, brick and stucco walls are cored with a diamond bit and the tunnel is built from insulated PVC sleeve to stop drafts, and vinyl siding gets a flashed surround so water never reaches the sheathing. On exterior walls I always insulate the tunnel and seal both interior and exterior trim with weatherproof caulk, because an uninsulated flap tunnel is the single biggest source of complaints about pet doors — cold air, condensation, and a wet floor under the flap.
I fit four-way locking flaps (in, out, both, and fully locked) as standard, and can wire in microchip- or collar-tag-reading electronic flaps so only your own pets get through, keeping strays and wildlife out. Every cut edge is finished and painted or stained to match the surrounding door or wall, sawdust and debris are contained and cleaned up before I leave, and I test the flap with your pet present whenever possible. The finished opening is sealed against drafts and checked for a smooth, quiet swing before the job is called done, backed by a workmanship guarantee on the seal and frame.
