About the service
Cracked, dried-out, or missing sealant around windows, doors, and siding joints is one of the most underestimated causes of high heating bills and hidden water leaks into walls. I offer a complete facade sealing and weatherproofing service: I find every gap in the house envelope and seal it properly, selecting material for the specific surface rather than applying the same compound everywhere.
I start the work by walking around the entire perimeter of the house: window and door frames, trim boards, siding joints and corners, dryer vent outlets, hose bibs — any place where different materials meet. I photograph problem areas so the customer can see the scope of work in advance, and separately mark issues that sealant alone won't fix — such as rotted wood or damaged flashing — so the defect is actually eliminated rather than just covered up.
I completely remove old sealant with a scraper and solvent rather than applying a new layer on top — compound applied over a damaged joint will peel off just as quickly. I clean the surface, dry it, prime if necessary, lay backer rod in wide gaps, and then apply a fresh bead of quality silicone or polyurethane sealant with careful tooling. I choose material for the substrate: silicone for glass and metal, paintable acrylic-latex or polyurethane for wooden trim and siding, so the joint stays flexible during seasonal temperature changes and doesn't crack again within a year.
This sealing directly reduces drafts, lowers heating and cooling costs, and prevents slow water penetration that over time leads to rot, mold, and expensive structural repairs. I work carefully, removing painter's tape and all debris when done, and stand behind the quality. If you've noticed drafts at windows, peeling sealant strips, or damp spots on interior walls near the exterior wall — write the address and send a few photos, and I'll prepare a clear estimate.
I start the work by walking around the entire perimeter of the house: window and door frames, trim boards, siding joints and corners, dryer vent outlets, hose bibs — any place where different materials meet. I photograph problem areas so the customer can see the scope of work in advance, and separately mark issues that sealant alone won't fix — such as rotted wood or damaged flashing — so the defect is actually eliminated rather than just covered up.
I completely remove old sealant with a scraper and solvent rather than applying a new layer on top — compound applied over a damaged joint will peel off just as quickly. I clean the surface, dry it, prime if necessary, lay backer rod in wide gaps, and then apply a fresh bead of quality silicone or polyurethane sealant with careful tooling. I choose material for the substrate: silicone for glass and metal, paintable acrylic-latex or polyurethane for wooden trim and siding, so the joint stays flexible during seasonal temperature changes and doesn't crack again within a year.
This sealing directly reduces drafts, lowers heating and cooling costs, and prevents slow water penetration that over time leads to rot, mold, and expensive structural repairs. I work carefully, removing painter's tape and all debris when done, and stand behind the quality. If you've noticed drafts at windows, peeling sealant strips, or damp spots on interior walls near the exterior wall — write the address and send a few photos, and I'll prepare a clear estimate.
