About the service
I'm a piano tuner and have been visiting clients at home for many years — I work with pianos, grand pianos, old instruments that have stood untouched for years, and new ones whose tuning has simply 'drifted' after a move or change of season. My approach is straightforward: first I listen to the instrument and explain what I see, and only then do I get to work so you understand in advance what you're paying for.
A typical visit begins with a complete tuning check across all 88 keys — by ear and with an electronic tuner, then precise tuning to the A440 pitch or to the pitch you need if the instrument is used in an ensemble. If a piano is severely out of tune — which happens with instruments that haven't been serviced for two years or more — I first do a rough pitch pull and then precise tuning: trying to tune a severely dropped instrument to zero right away is almost pointless, the tuning won't hold. Besides tuning, I check and regulate the mechanics: key depth, hammer alignment, bounce and repetition, so the keys respond evenly, not every other one.
I work with my own tools and a calibrated electronic tuner — as a check on my ear, not a replacement for it — and I always play scales and a short piece after tuning before saying the work is done. If I see something outside normal tuning — a cracked hammer, a loose pin, signs of moisture — I'll tell you honestly and suggest options rather than quietly overlook the problem.
What's included in the visit:
— Complete tuning check and precise tuning across all keys
— Pitch pull if the instrument is severely out of tune
— Mechanics regulation: key depth, bounce, hammer alignment
— Basic inspection of pins, strings and hammers with a short note on the instrument's condition
— Final listening before work completion
A typical visit begins with a complete tuning check across all 88 keys — by ear and with an electronic tuner, then precise tuning to the A440 pitch or to the pitch you need if the instrument is used in an ensemble. If a piano is severely out of tune — which happens with instruments that haven't been serviced for two years or more — I first do a rough pitch pull and then precise tuning: trying to tune a severely dropped instrument to zero right away is almost pointless, the tuning won't hold. Besides tuning, I check and regulate the mechanics: key depth, hammer alignment, bounce and repetition, so the keys respond evenly, not every other one.
I work with my own tools and a calibrated electronic tuner — as a check on my ear, not a replacement for it — and I always play scales and a short piece after tuning before saying the work is done. If I see something outside normal tuning — a cracked hammer, a loose pin, signs of moisture — I'll tell you honestly and suggest options rather than quietly overlook the problem.
What's included in the visit:
— Complete tuning check and precise tuning across all keys
— Pitch pull if the instrument is severely out of tune
— Mechanics regulation: key depth, bounce, hammer alignment
— Basic inspection of pins, strings and hammers with a short note on the instrument's condition
— Final listening before work completion
